This page is dedicated for your Rabbit Needs and Health Care.
I have included links along with my own personal experience for a Rabbit's Basic needs. From Life Span, to health concerns you might have or your rabbit is experiencing, to safe foods, to cage needs, worming (What type, when & how much), and nail care information (Even a nail trimming video).
I have included links along with my own personal experience for a Rabbit's Basic needs. From Life Span, to health concerns you might have or your rabbit is experiencing, to safe foods, to cage needs, worming (What type, when & how much), and nail care information (Even a nail trimming video).
BASIC RABBIT NEEDS ~ INFORMATION
Information about the Species: Rabbit
Life Span of a Rabbit: On average rabbits live: 5-8 years. Some live to 10+ years. It is a LONG Term commitment. Like sharing your home with a Cat or Dog. Not like a Mouse, Hamster, Gerbil - who only live: 1-3 years.
Rabbits don't have Sweat Glands! ~ so they can over heat; "Heat Stroke" very quickly and could result in being paralyzed or even death.
- Keeping rabbits in COOLER surroundings is idea. However, not in drafty spaces, and not with direct air-conditioning on them.
- Do not leave them outside in 75 degrees F or higher. Do not house them in direct sunlight. The shadier the better if out door bunny.
- Do not leave them in the cold NY wintery elements.
Keep rabbit in a constant: 65-40 degrees F temp. Out of the weather elements and out of direct sunlight.
Keeping Rabbit Inside: Not in a drafty location. Not in a VERY hot space. Not in direct heat.
Keeping Rabbit Outside: Out of the elements - Winter: Meaning: not in the snow/ice or rain. NEEDS: Shelter (House type area), with plenty of Hay, and other things to keep warm from the NY Bitter Cold. Summer: Out of direct sunlight. Needs a COOL area/Shaded and a house type structure to go in and keep cool.
Keeping Rabbit Semi: (Barn or Garage). a light during the day would be nice. Keep any leaky area off rabbit.
- Keeping rabbits in COOLER surroundings is idea. However, not in drafty spaces, and not with direct air-conditioning on them.
- Do not leave them outside in 75 degrees F or higher. Do not house them in direct sunlight. The shadier the better if out door bunny.
- Do not leave them in the cold NY wintery elements.
Keep rabbit in a constant: 65-40 degrees F temp. Out of the weather elements and out of direct sunlight.
Keeping Rabbit Inside: Not in a drafty location. Not in a VERY hot space. Not in direct heat.
Keeping Rabbit Outside: Out of the elements - Winter: Meaning: not in the snow/ice or rain. NEEDS: Shelter (House type area), with plenty of Hay, and other things to keep warm from the NY Bitter Cold. Summer: Out of direct sunlight. Needs a COOL area/Shaded and a house type structure to go in and keep cool.
Keeping Rabbit Semi: (Barn or Garage). a light during the day would be nice. Keep any leaky area off rabbit.
Rabbits are Afraid of Heights! - Do not place rabbit on anything he can jump off of. Rabbits jump by pushing off with their back legs. If a rabbit "KICKS" off to hard... he/she can "KICK" his back legs out and you will then have a PARALYZED Rabbit! NOT a good thing. So keep rabbits off tables, off chairs, off couches. KEEP RABBIT In your Lap on the ground!
Rabbits have Very Weak Digestive Systems! - Watch what you feed your rabbits. He/she doesn't need treats to make him happy. Having a NON Gassy Stomach, an regular Poops IS important to make him/her happy. *Read more about what you can, and can't/shouldn't feed your rabbit in the FOOD/Dietary Needs portion - down below!
Rabbits are a "SOLITAIRE" Species! ~ Remember they are considered PREY in their Natural World. They don't even stay with their young for more than just feeding/nursing for minutes a day. Even in Captivity ~ they shouldn't be housed together. Even if: Neutered 1 or both rabbits, or are same sexed, same aged, same litter siblings - Eventually the rabbits tend to fight as they get older. Rabbits are VERY Territorial and will fight to the death. OR ---> One rabbit will keep the other/s away from the food and water, and by the the time you notice one of your rabbits is skinny/too skinny...usually it's :( sadly, too late to help. Even though you feel there is more than enough food, or food dishes, water or water dishes/bottles or a HUGE cage space with multiple levels. It doesn't matter ~ Rabbits are VERY Territorial!
HOWEVER; there is always exceptions to this rule. Some people have successfully house 2 rabbits or more together with success. This is for the most part not the case; but it can and does happen. If you are going to try this... BE SURE TO HAVE 2 CAGES on hand to separate, and CONSTANTLY watch them. As rabbits may seem fine during the day while you are watching, but in the morning you may find you have a dead or wounded pet. Rabbits fight to the death. Their back legs can and have killed Hawks, Raccoons, Fox, Possums and of course other rabbits. So to answer the 2nd question everyone seems to ask: ~ Do I need a rabbit to keep my rabbit company when I am not around! ~ Again, NO! Rabbits are Solitaire creatures! Yes, they Love, Crave and Want or maybe just Tolerate our attention. But they are Happy and content to be by themselves! So NO you don't need a rabbit for the sake of keeping your rabbit company! Now, it's not that the HUMAN/YOU don't need more than 1 rabbit. :) ~ that is a different answer entirely! But Remember: Rabbits live on Average 6-8 years and can live to 10 years. That's a long time commitment! Like sharing your home with a cat or dog!
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OTHER BASIC (MONTHLY) NEEDS TO ENSURE
A HAPPY & HEALTHY RABBIT
TEETH,NAILS & WORMING (Orally)!!!!
YOU NEED TO TRIM A RABBITS NAILS (Monthly)!
*Below is a quick video ~ where I show you a quick, easy, safe and so the rabbit feels secure when getting their nailed trimmed every month.
It is like cutting a dogs (&/or cats nails). Be careful of the "Quick"/Blood vessel in the nails.
TRIMMING RABBIT NAILS: How to trim nail video by: Marissa
NAILS:
HOW TO TRIM/CUT YOUR RABBITS NAILS ------> This video is in 2 parts. Because I cut one of the nails too close and nicked the rabbits' quick and it started to bleed.
My mom didn't know she should pause the video vs. stop the video like she did. So the second part, shows you what to do if you nick the quick and make your bunny bleed. ~ How to stop the bleeding if you cut into the quick = Part 2. |
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TEETH:
RABBITS ARE RODENTS! RODENTS TEETH AND NAILS CONTINUOUSLY GROW!
Rabbits can chew on and do chew on everything ~ they are rodents and gnawers by nature.
Safe items to help your rabbit trim his teeth are:
Clean (non birdie poop and non pesticided) Pine Cones
Apple or Pear branches (Non Pesticided/non treated),
Pumice stones (you can buy at any dollar store),
Alfalfa or Timothy cubes
Child wooden kid alphabet blocks
A piece of NON Treated Wood (Home Depot/Lowes)
RABBITS ARE RODENTS! RODENTS TEETH AND NAILS CONTINUOUSLY GROW!
Rabbits can chew on and do chew on everything ~ they are rodents and gnawers by nature.
Safe items to help your rabbit trim his teeth are:
Clean (non birdie poop and non pesticided) Pine Cones
Apple or Pear branches (Non Pesticided/non treated),
Pumice stones (you can buy at any dollar store),
Alfalfa or Timothy cubes
Child wooden kid alphabet blocks
A piece of NON Treated Wood (Home Depot/Lowes)
WORMING:
We use "Horse Wormer" ~ every 3 months (Months: Once a Season: (Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter). I also worm a rabbit mommy who is nursing, and when the kits are weaned along with when I sell a rabbit.
I will show you how when you pick up your rabbit. It is VERY Easy and quick to do.
Horse Wormers (Brands) I use. I use 2 every time:
"Panacur" & "Ivermetin" = (Pictured below)
You can buy both Panacur and Ivermectin Horse/Equine Dewormer from:
"Country Max"! Sometimes at "Tractor Supply" and I heard "Runnings" also carries.
DOSAGE: I give a "PEA" Sized amount each time orally to each rabbit.
We use "Horse Wormer" ~ every 3 months (Months: Once a Season: (Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter). I also worm a rabbit mommy who is nursing, and when the kits are weaned along with when I sell a rabbit.
I will show you how when you pick up your rabbit. It is VERY Easy and quick to do.
Horse Wormers (Brands) I use. I use 2 every time:
"Panacur" & "Ivermetin" = (Pictured below)
You can buy both Panacur and Ivermectin Horse/Equine Dewormer from:
"Country Max"! Sometimes at "Tractor Supply" and I heard "Runnings" also carries.
DOSAGE: I give a "PEA" Sized amount each time orally to each rabbit.
MEDICAL CONCERNS, ISSUES AND SYMPTOMS
Helpful Websites for Medical/Healthy Issues:
Oxbow Animal Health (Rabbit): https://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-your-rabbit-is-sick/
The Spruce Pets: https://www.thesprucepets.com/signs-that-your-rabbit-is-sick-1835739
My House Rabbit: https://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-health/
Rabbit-Pedia: https://rabbitpedia.com/rabbit-medicine/#b
The Nature Trail: https://thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-links/informational/
MEDICINIAL HERBS: https://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/06/09/medicinal-herbs-for-rabbits/
MERCK MANUAL: Veterinary Manual://www.merckvetmanual.com/exotic-and-laboratory-animals/rabbits/noninfectious-diseases-of-rabbits
Medirabbit: http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/index_en.htm
Oxbow Animal Health (Rabbit): https://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-your-rabbit-is-sick/
The Spruce Pets: https://www.thesprucepets.com/signs-that-your-rabbit-is-sick-1835739
My House Rabbit: https://myhouserabbit.com/rabbit-health/
Rabbit-Pedia: https://rabbitpedia.com/rabbit-medicine/#b
The Nature Trail: https://thenaturetrail.com/rabbit-links/informational/
MEDICINIAL HERBS: https://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/06/09/medicinal-herbs-for-rabbits/
MERCK MANUAL: Veterinary Manual://www.merckvetmanual.com/exotic-and-laboratory-animals/rabbits/noninfectious-diseases-of-rabbits
Medirabbit: http://www.medirabbit.com/EN/index_en.htm
OTHER QUESTIONS YOU MIGHT HAVE:
Q: Can I potty/litter train my rabbit?
Answer: I do not potty/litter train our rabbits. With over 100 of them in our rabbitry = this is not an option. But you can find wonderful tutorials/"You Tube" videos on how to potty train your rabbit at ANY age...not just at a very young age. Rabbits Like/prefer to "Potty" in ONE area of their cage... Putting a litter box in that corner is Ideal! Good Luck!!!!
Q: _POOP?
Answer: Rabbits have 2 different looking poops daily/nightly. One (Daily) looks like Little round/brown dry "Coco Puffs" looking and the NIGHT TIME poops...are Wetter "Blackberry" Looking.... This poop you might notice your rabbit eating. Yes ~ we, humans think it's gross...But for rabbits ~ it's very nutritious and healthy for them (Probiotics). (Picture borrowed from: "Bunny Wonderland"!)
Sick Rabbit? Poop's always a signal/sign!
Helpful Sites: https://rabbit.org/the-mystery-of-rabbit-poop/?fbclid=IwAR3SyRzLfzYvX-rnQ2k2yc536sj60sxrqV6mM2rqENGA5PuFNfXwFrtBpKI
https://rabbit.org/the-mystery-of-rabbit-poop/?fbclid=IwAR3SyRzLfzYvX-rnQ2k2yc536sj60sxrqV6mM2rqENGA5PuFNfXwFrtBpKI
http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Rabbit_poop?fbclid=IwAR019tWOA05wXb6JPSuQghsjqjxDsG5hUngAuz1ffdP3EWDDFeS83pfQG9E
Answer: I do not potty/litter train our rabbits. With over 100 of them in our rabbitry = this is not an option. But you can find wonderful tutorials/"You Tube" videos on how to potty train your rabbit at ANY age...not just at a very young age. Rabbits Like/prefer to "Potty" in ONE area of their cage... Putting a litter box in that corner is Ideal! Good Luck!!!!
Q: _POOP?
Answer: Rabbits have 2 different looking poops daily/nightly. One (Daily) looks like Little round/brown dry "Coco Puffs" looking and the NIGHT TIME poops...are Wetter "Blackberry" Looking.... This poop you might notice your rabbit eating. Yes ~ we, humans think it's gross...But for rabbits ~ it's very nutritious and healthy for them (Probiotics). (Picture borrowed from: "Bunny Wonderland"!)
Sick Rabbit? Poop's always a signal/sign!
Helpful Sites: https://rabbit.org/the-mystery-of-rabbit-poop/?fbclid=IwAR3SyRzLfzYvX-rnQ2k2yc536sj60sxrqV6mM2rqENGA5PuFNfXwFrtBpKI
https://rabbit.org/the-mystery-of-rabbit-poop/?fbclid=IwAR3SyRzLfzYvX-rnQ2k2yc536sj60sxrqV6mM2rqENGA5PuFNfXwFrtBpKI
http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Rabbit_poop?fbclid=IwAR019tWOA05wXb6JPSuQghsjqjxDsG5hUngAuz1ffdP3EWDDFeS83pfQG9E
THINGS YOU NEED TO THINK ABOUT -
"BEFORE" PURCHASING A RABBIT
Who are you purchasing a rabbit for?
Cute bunnies don't always stay cute bunnies, they grow up! Will you still be loving and interested in your rabbit 5 years from now.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for late teens - who might going away to college - out of state, hours away? No time? etc.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for the very young/toddler age. Due to handling, both bunny and child nervous...etc.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for people who go on vacation often/or have a child/children that play travel sports. Bunnies need - Fresh water, and fed daily. Not like cats that you can feed and leave out water for them for a few days.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for children... Bunnies live to 10 years. Children lose interest in months.
KNOW WHAT RABBIT BREED YOU WANT and ARE LOOKING AT ~ When you are out shopping from a store or breeder. Not all rabbits are the same. Different: Sizes, Shapes, Weight, Ear Length, Fur/Wool length, Fur/Wool texture, and Color/Varieties and IMPORTANT: TEMPERAMENTS and Males vs. Female personalities. Make sure if someone tells you the Breed of the rabbit ~ Make sure you know How Big/Weight the rabbit will get. Some breeders/stores ~ tell you what you want to hear to make a Sale. ~
DO YOUR RESEARCH ON WHAT YOU WANT! It's not fair to the rabbit if you were told it was a dwarf breed, and it turns out to be a 8lb rabbit, and then you don't have room for it, or don't want it!
DO YOUR RESEARCH ~ what the Breed Looks like and how big when full grown (Usually 5-6 months of age). NOT ALL RABBIT BREEDS are Created Equal. Some are VERY Large/Meat, some are very small/Dwarf/Pet, Some have LONG WOOL - for spinning (these rabbits need more grooming/time consuming), Some have VERY large ears..which require a bit more maintenance.
SO, KNOW YOUR BREED! (Links of Rabbits/US - ARBA, and Worldwide) Over 300 breeds of rabbits world wide.
https://arba.net/recognized-breeds/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_rabbit_breeds
OTHER Things to Consider:
Do you go on vacation often? If so, do you have someone who would be willing to feed and water your rabbit daily while you are away? Even possibly change their "Waste" tray/clean their cage?
Do you have other pets? Cats and/or Dogs that might/could harm your rabbit?
Do you have a place to house your rabbit year round? With coolness/shade or air-conditioning in the summer? Somewhere warm in the fall/winter freezing months. Water bottles DO freeze, as do water dishes. Keep this in mind.
Is this going to be a pet rabbit or are you going to "SHOW" your rabbit (At ARBA Rabbit Shows)?
And if you have another bunny - do you have enough cages for BOTH to have their own cage, water, and food dish? Are you going to have them both fixed. Are you willing to put your hand in to separate them if they start to fight & bite????
Cute bunnies don't always stay cute bunnies, they grow up! Will you still be loving and interested in your rabbit 5 years from now.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for late teens - who might going away to college - out of state, hours away? No time? etc.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for the very young/toddler age. Due to handling, both bunny and child nervous...etc.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for people who go on vacation often/or have a child/children that play travel sports. Bunnies need - Fresh water, and fed daily. Not like cats that you can feed and leave out water for them for a few days.
Bunnies aren't always the best pets for children... Bunnies live to 10 years. Children lose interest in months.
KNOW WHAT RABBIT BREED YOU WANT and ARE LOOKING AT ~ When you are out shopping from a store or breeder. Not all rabbits are the same. Different: Sizes, Shapes, Weight, Ear Length, Fur/Wool length, Fur/Wool texture, and Color/Varieties and IMPORTANT: TEMPERAMENTS and Males vs. Female personalities. Make sure if someone tells you the Breed of the rabbit ~ Make sure you know How Big/Weight the rabbit will get. Some breeders/stores ~ tell you what you want to hear to make a Sale. ~
DO YOUR RESEARCH ON WHAT YOU WANT! It's not fair to the rabbit if you were told it was a dwarf breed, and it turns out to be a 8lb rabbit, and then you don't have room for it, or don't want it!
DO YOUR RESEARCH ~ what the Breed Looks like and how big when full grown (Usually 5-6 months of age). NOT ALL RABBIT BREEDS are Created Equal. Some are VERY Large/Meat, some are very small/Dwarf/Pet, Some have LONG WOOL - for spinning (these rabbits need more grooming/time consuming), Some have VERY large ears..which require a bit more maintenance.
SO, KNOW YOUR BREED! (Links of Rabbits/US - ARBA, and Worldwide) Over 300 breeds of rabbits world wide.
https://arba.net/recognized-breeds/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_rabbit_breeds
OTHER Things to Consider:
Do you go on vacation often? If so, do you have someone who would be willing to feed and water your rabbit daily while you are away? Even possibly change their "Waste" tray/clean their cage?
Do you have other pets? Cats and/or Dogs that might/could harm your rabbit?
Do you have a place to house your rabbit year round? With coolness/shade or air-conditioning in the summer? Somewhere warm in the fall/winter freezing months. Water bottles DO freeze, as do water dishes. Keep this in mind.
Is this going to be a pet rabbit or are you going to "SHOW" your rabbit (At ARBA Rabbit Shows)?
And if you have another bunny - do you have enough cages for BOTH to have their own cage, water, and food dish? Are you going to have them both fixed. Are you willing to put your hand in to separate them if they start to fight & bite????
Q: How old/young can I purchase my rabbit?
Answer: In NYS it is against the law to purchase them under the age of 8 weeks. I heard it was moved to 12 weeks (But I can't find that documented anywhere). Babies are usually weaned around 6-8 week
I Do not sell our rabbits until they are 3 - 4 months old. 3 reasons:
1) I breed, and raise Rabbits for SHOW quality reasons. And sometimes we can't tell if they are going to be show quality until 4-5 months. So we don't sell, until we know we can't use them in our program or on the show tables. Sometimes we will sell at 3 months of age...if we have too many of that sex, color, or if they are un-showable (Color, or size, mismatched colored toe nails)
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY ~
2) I like to ensure you are getting a healthy rabbit; sometimes, rabbits just "Fade" and die in the first 3 months of life. Sometimes for no apparent reason, no obvious reasons. We also like to worm our rabbits -before they leave us.
3) FRIENDLY, PERSONALITY, HANDL-ABLE Rabbits/Pets are very important to me. Making sure they don't have bad temperaments, and are friendly, and use to being handled and loved on for their new owners. I handle babies from day 1 until they day their find their new forever homes.
Jersey Woolies have the best temperaments of all the Dwarf Breeds in the rabbit world. Netherlands - Not always =great personalities. However, any rabbit can have a bad personality, or be very skiddish or opposite - can be very personable and friendly.
It is important to me to make sure I have Healthy, the Best Quality, and Personality all mixed into 1!!! The ones that have the personality and health - but not the show quality are the ones I sell as pets to the public.
Q: Where is the best place to purchase a rabbit? Pet Store/Breeder?
Answer: In our opinion - Always a SHOW breeder. Cheaper (As pets/ and 4H'ers), SHOW Breeders can tell you the background of parents, siblings, birth date, taken care of better (diet/pellets, etc). But still ask questions! Showman Breeders...breed for SHOW quality, so of course they take (Most) take great care in their rabbits ~ as they WANT to win on the tables, with their best. "The Best of the BEST". You Can't win if you don't take care of your rabbits!
NOT ALL BREEDERS ARE THE SAME. Hobby breeders (and even some Show Breeders) are in it for the money! :( Sadly! SHOW Breeders = Breeders to breed for shows! ~ ARBA and even 4H'ers...are breeding for quality not for $$$. As any Good and reputable "Showman" Breeder will tell you...we lose WAY more money than we make! It's about the Quality of the rabbits and not making the $$$.
Some breeders (Hobby or :( sadly show breeders) sell their sick or other conditioned rabbits to Pet Stores for people to buy. Pet Stores are also in it for the money. They feed whatever ...to sustain the life of the animal until they are sold. Most times they know nothing of the background of the rabbit, parents, etc. That is not to say, rabbits from pet stores will die earlier or are sick. You never know what's going on inside the rabbit (Healthy wise); like any other living creature.
Q: What is a pedigree and do I need one?
Answer: No, you don't need a Pedigree (As a Pet Rabbit).
Answer: No, if you are going to Show at 4H or just to Show (But don't care about "Sweepstake Points") at ARBA Shows.
Answer: YES, if you are going to SHOW your rabbit at ARBA sanctioned shows and eventually want to "GRAND" your rabbit (Because he has won awards/shows "LEGS") then you will need one.
Answer: YES, if you are going to start breeding and need the backgrounds for selling your rabbits at shows.
WHAT IS A PEDIGREE???? Answer: It is a printed piece of paper with your rabbits' name, date of birth, color, weight and ear tattoo (if applicable), and the rabbits parents name, and same information. Usually a pedigree goes 4 generations back.
It's a nice, cool thing to have. But not necessary. OUR PRICES REFLECT RABBIT (w/No PEDIGREE aka: A PET rabbit, not show quality for the tables). All our rabbits are Pedigree'd; however we no longer sell rabbits with their pedigree's. BUT ~ You can always find your rabbit and their information, such as sex, color, date of birth (DOB) and parents names on the For Sale page along with his/her parents names. You can also look up their parents names on the other rabbit pages of my website to see their parents and their colors.
You can find a CUTE (Non Real) Printable "Mock" Pedigree for you to fill out and keep for records or for your Little One to have and keep ~
at the top of this page.
Q: How can I tell if I Bunny is Happy or Sad?
Answer: UNHAPPY BUNNIES:
If your bunny is running from you in his cage, or cowering in a corner - then your bunny is scared. Let him/her warm up to you. A special treat - like a dandelion leaf, or a plain Cheerio/or plain small square of Shredded Wheat cereal (Non flavored, no sugar, no frosting) and while he is eating, slowly pet him. Do this daily until he associates treats with a "Good human/Friend"!
IF they are scared or nervous or not in the happiest moods their ears will be back tightly to the back part of their heads.
IF they are "Charging" at you, or trying to bite or scratch you - they aren't happy campers.
- Try A bigger cage, a bit more food, a bit more treats - Bribes :). Rabbits are territorial - this might be a reason for their distance or bad behavior.
If you need to wear Work gloves to pick up your rabbit and take him/her out of cage. Take him/her (Carry like a "Football" into a small area (Bathtub or very small cage...where the rabbit has to be very near you or on you... feed/offer small treats. and DO THIS DAILY! SPEND TIME WITH YOUR Rabbit!!!
Answer: HAPPY BUNNIES:
If your bunny is Jumping and "Popcorning" he is happy, go lucky. Happy bunnies like to come up and nudge you with their heads... to let you know, hey look at me...I'm your friend, watch me. ("Popcorning" = jumping up in the air a bit, in a circular motion, and kicking his/her legs out in the air a bit. You can you tube what it looks like).
"Happy Bunnies" ~ their ears are usually upright and relaxed (unless haha :) - they are a lopped eared rabbit) - NOT pushed back tightly to their heads. They will come close to you and can't wait to see you. Basically friendly "Attention Grabbers".
Answer: In NYS it is against the law to purchase them under the age of 8 weeks. I heard it was moved to 12 weeks (But I can't find that documented anywhere). Babies are usually weaned around 6-8 week
I Do not sell our rabbits until they are 3 - 4 months old. 3 reasons:
1) I breed, and raise Rabbits for SHOW quality reasons. And sometimes we can't tell if they are going to be show quality until 4-5 months. So we don't sell, until we know we can't use them in our program or on the show tables. Sometimes we will sell at 3 months of age...if we have too many of that sex, color, or if they are un-showable (Color, or size, mismatched colored toe nails)
AND MOST IMPORTANTLY ~
2) I like to ensure you are getting a healthy rabbit; sometimes, rabbits just "Fade" and die in the first 3 months of life. Sometimes for no apparent reason, no obvious reasons. We also like to worm our rabbits -before they leave us.
3) FRIENDLY, PERSONALITY, HANDL-ABLE Rabbits/Pets are very important to me. Making sure they don't have bad temperaments, and are friendly, and use to being handled and loved on for their new owners. I handle babies from day 1 until they day their find their new forever homes.
Jersey Woolies have the best temperaments of all the Dwarf Breeds in the rabbit world. Netherlands - Not always =great personalities. However, any rabbit can have a bad personality, or be very skiddish or opposite - can be very personable and friendly.
It is important to me to make sure I have Healthy, the Best Quality, and Personality all mixed into 1!!! The ones that have the personality and health - but not the show quality are the ones I sell as pets to the public.
Q: Where is the best place to purchase a rabbit? Pet Store/Breeder?
Answer: In our opinion - Always a SHOW breeder. Cheaper (As pets/ and 4H'ers), SHOW Breeders can tell you the background of parents, siblings, birth date, taken care of better (diet/pellets, etc). But still ask questions! Showman Breeders...breed for SHOW quality, so of course they take (Most) take great care in their rabbits ~ as they WANT to win on the tables, with their best. "The Best of the BEST". You Can't win if you don't take care of your rabbits!
NOT ALL BREEDERS ARE THE SAME. Hobby breeders (and even some Show Breeders) are in it for the money! :( Sadly! SHOW Breeders = Breeders to breed for shows! ~ ARBA and even 4H'ers...are breeding for quality not for $$$. As any Good and reputable "Showman" Breeder will tell you...we lose WAY more money than we make! It's about the Quality of the rabbits and not making the $$$.
Some breeders (Hobby or :( sadly show breeders) sell their sick or other conditioned rabbits to Pet Stores for people to buy. Pet Stores are also in it for the money. They feed whatever ...to sustain the life of the animal until they are sold. Most times they know nothing of the background of the rabbit, parents, etc. That is not to say, rabbits from pet stores will die earlier or are sick. You never know what's going on inside the rabbit (Healthy wise); like any other living creature.
Q: What is a pedigree and do I need one?
Answer: No, you don't need a Pedigree (As a Pet Rabbit).
Answer: No, if you are going to Show at 4H or just to Show (But don't care about "Sweepstake Points") at ARBA Shows.
Answer: YES, if you are going to SHOW your rabbit at ARBA sanctioned shows and eventually want to "GRAND" your rabbit (Because he has won awards/shows "LEGS") then you will need one.
Answer: YES, if you are going to start breeding and need the backgrounds for selling your rabbits at shows.
WHAT IS A PEDIGREE???? Answer: It is a printed piece of paper with your rabbits' name, date of birth, color, weight and ear tattoo (if applicable), and the rabbits parents name, and same information. Usually a pedigree goes 4 generations back.
It's a nice, cool thing to have. But not necessary. OUR PRICES REFLECT RABBIT (w/No PEDIGREE aka: A PET rabbit, not show quality for the tables). All our rabbits are Pedigree'd; however we no longer sell rabbits with their pedigree's. BUT ~ You can always find your rabbit and their information, such as sex, color, date of birth (DOB) and parents names on the For Sale page along with his/her parents names. You can also look up their parents names on the other rabbit pages of my website to see their parents and their colors.
You can find a CUTE (Non Real) Printable "Mock" Pedigree for you to fill out and keep for records or for your Little One to have and keep ~
at the top of this page.
Q: How can I tell if I Bunny is Happy or Sad?
Answer: UNHAPPY BUNNIES:
If your bunny is running from you in his cage, or cowering in a corner - then your bunny is scared. Let him/her warm up to you. A special treat - like a dandelion leaf, or a plain Cheerio/or plain small square of Shredded Wheat cereal (Non flavored, no sugar, no frosting) and while he is eating, slowly pet him. Do this daily until he associates treats with a "Good human/Friend"!
IF they are scared or nervous or not in the happiest moods their ears will be back tightly to the back part of their heads.
IF they are "Charging" at you, or trying to bite or scratch you - they aren't happy campers.
- Try A bigger cage, a bit more food, a bit more treats - Bribes :). Rabbits are territorial - this might be a reason for their distance or bad behavior.
If you need to wear Work gloves to pick up your rabbit and take him/her out of cage. Take him/her (Carry like a "Football" into a small area (Bathtub or very small cage...where the rabbit has to be very near you or on you... feed/offer small treats. and DO THIS DAILY! SPEND TIME WITH YOUR Rabbit!!!
Answer: HAPPY BUNNIES:
If your bunny is Jumping and "Popcorning" he is happy, go lucky. Happy bunnies like to come up and nudge you with their heads... to let you know, hey look at me...I'm your friend, watch me. ("Popcorning" = jumping up in the air a bit, in a circular motion, and kicking his/her legs out in the air a bit. You can you tube what it looks like).
"Happy Bunnies" ~ their ears are usually upright and relaxed (unless haha :) - they are a lopped eared rabbit) - NOT pushed back tightly to their heads. They will come close to you and can't wait to see you. Basically friendly "Attention Grabbers".